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Full Version: New turbo on Mazda 3 MZCD 2006
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A friend has replaced my turbo, flushed the engine and changed the oil and filter. We have run the car at 2000 RPM or less in normal driving for over 30 mins and after that everything seemed normal with the turbo working as it should. That was yesterday. We are in France and the turbo is a Hoet - see link for details. http://www.oscaro.com/turbocompresseur-s...733-2234-p

This morning I drove to our local town - about 6 miles away and mainly downhill. When going through a small village with a 30mph speed limit, the engine acted as though it was misfiring, although only it was only very slight and my wife didn't notice anything. On the way back home, part of the journey is uphill and the car struggled with any moderate gradients and I think the turbo wasn't working at this point.

When I got back home I checked the oil - which was almost full, but added about 25cl to top it up. I tried revving when stationary and the car would reach more than 5000 RPM without difficulty, although at one point there was a puff of white smoke from the exhaust. I could also hear something click as the revs reduced.

I desperately want to avoid damaging the new turbo and would be grateful for any advice from any one who can help.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Roy,

This is a notoriously bad engine for blowing turbochargers ,
Looks like you did the bare minimum required to change any turbocharger , on these 1.6 hdi this just isn't enough .
I have copied / pasted some information as to what you should have done further down this message.

From your description it sounds like the problem is with your VNT (Nozzle system) in the turbo , Was your turbo a brand new one or refurbished one ?
You need to send it back if it was refurbished as they have not changed the vnt when they refurbished it.

Here are the instructions for changing this turbo and I would suggest you do some of the work you left out (especially the breather hoses) .

• Turbocharger oil feed pipe & banjo bolts must be changed

• Oil pump should be removed and checked

• Sump must be removed and cleaned.

• Check that engine has latest specification sump and dipstick.

• Oil strainer (pick up) must be removed and replaced due to residual carbon/sludge build up

• Oil cooler and filter assembly should be removed and cleaned

• Charge air cooler to be removed, cleaned thoroughly and any oil inside drained off

• Inlet and outlet hoses to be checked for damage and cleaned

• Exhaust system to be checked for contamination/blockage (Catalyst, DPF etc.)

• Vehicles with DPF: carry out static regeneration according to manufacturers guidlines

• Brake vacuum pump to be removed and checked for debris/carbon - clean as necessary

• New oil filter and oil to be fitted

• Fuel injector gaskets to be checked as not burnt or compromised - replace as necessary

• Oil drain pipe checked for blockage/restrictions and cleaned as necessary

• Oil flow must be checked:
– Fit turbocharger to engine leaving oil return pipe off
– Install a longer oil return line and feed into suitable container
– Start engine and idle for 60 seconds, then switch off engine
– Measure volume of oil in container - 60 seconds of idle should produce at least 0.3 Litres of oil
– Repeat test two or three times to confirm oil flow is correct
– During this test, do not allow engine to run below minimum oil level!!
– Vehicle should be driven 20 to 30 miles then the oil/filter must be changed and the filter in the banjo bolt removed
– Advise oil/filter are changed at 3000 mile intervals

Good Luck
Yes I agree with UK Roy
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